Lombok Part II – The Gilis

Alright, for those keeping track, we are onto Part 2 of our Lombok mission. Upon our triumphant post-Rinjani (see previous post) return to base, we enjoyed a relaxed transition from mountain mode to beach mode. First a cold Bingtang, then some local Sasak food (Sasak is the predominate ethnic group on Lombok), a shower/change of clothes, then into our awaiting car for transport to the ferry terminal in Pamenang. Our target: “The Gilis”.

So what’s a “Gili”? Gili means “small island” in Sasak. Technically therefore, any small dot in the ocean is a gili. But us white folk, in the tradition of translating everything to our benefit, have named 3 small islands off the northwest coast of Lombok as “the Gili Islands” – each with its own personality. Gili Trawangan is the party island, Gili Meno is the quiet/chill island, with Gili Air the “in between” island. Being the moderates we are, we set our sights on an initial beachhead on Gili Air. By “small island” we’re talking you can walk around the whole thing in an hour or so, which is cool.

Amy’s job, as you loyal followers know, is to scour the internet in search of the perfect accom set-up as we migrate from place to place. After the initial shit-show of figuring out how to actually get on a boat and over to the Gilis (our scum-bag driver dropped us off at an “agent” who tried to sell us boat tix for 4 times the actual price….and then no doubt would give a cut to the driver – we saw through it and just bolted for the harbour ourselves and found the real ticket office…can’t let your guard down for a second!), we landed at Pelangi Cottages on the north end of Gili Air.

One of coolest things about the Gilis is that there are no combustion engines permitted, i.e., no cars, no motorbikes, only bicycles and very quaint (albeit expensive) horse-drawn taxis. A surreal break from the congested smoggy roads of West Java. Pelangi was a great place, right on the beach, amazing sunsets, glorious mornings, great beach, central locale, and probably the best outdoor bathroom/shower we have had yet. Only one snag: non-stop background Bob Marley mixed with electronica from about 3 pm till 10 pm. And, to our horror, the place next door offered a gigantic rave party, advertised as 10 pm till 3:30 am (er, we go to bed at about 8 pm), every Wednesday night. We drew the short straw and overlapped with rave night (I can still hear that rave beat in my head). We stayed the 2 nights we had booked, but decided to move on to quieter surroundings: Gili Meno – the chill island.

Amy’s internet sleuthing found us, what could likely be the best place on Meno. After a couple of walking laps around the island (about a 1-hr stroll on a dirt/sand oceanside trail…nice!) we decided that every place has it’s pros and cons, but ours – Biru Meno – was pretty sweet. Definitely one of the chilliest places on the island, it’s pretty much that place you just hang out, read your book, stare out into the ocean, and forget your troubles. The biggest decision is where to watch the sunset and whether we’ll get the chicken-pesto or mushroom-tomato pizza for dinner.

Highlights of our time in the Gilis definitely include the no-cars/motorbikes thing. You walk or bike everywhere, which is very cool. The ring trails that circumnavigate the islands make for perfect sunset hikes, morning strolls, running (for the type-As in the crowd), and just getting around on foot. Beaches are ubiquitous and just ring the entirety of all 3 islands, so you’re never more than a few meters from the beach. Great swimming, great beaches, and even decent snorkeling right from the beach. Oh ya, and a life-first for both of us: snorkeling with turtles! Cool!

We had read that chances of seeing a sea turtle while snorkeling were decent, given that Gili Meno houses a home-grown turtle nursery/sanctuary. But it was incredible to be finning around the coral and see one cruising by underneath us. So gentle, so calm, just flapping its fins and moving through the water. I actually reached out and touched it a bit, and it surprisingly didn’t flinch. I easily could have grabbed it and flung it out onto the beach. I guess that’s why they’re endangered almost everywhere they exist. Humans eh….who let them on this planet anyway?  Anyway, we followed it for a while then let him get on with his life.

Overall, we’re giving the Gilis 2 thumbs up – although, we can’t speak for Gili Trawangan (the party island). You’ll have to find a 22-yr-old backpacker on ecstasy for that beta. Based on all accounts, Trawangan is the tropical version of Shambala (google it if you aren’t from Nelson). Gili Air is what they say, a mix. If you want to rave, you can, but if you pick your accom well, you can get away from the 24-hr Bob Marley (now we know!). The beaches are superb, and the sunsets are outrageous. We even found a favourite restaurant, The Mexican Kitchen, reminiscent of the best Mexican places anywhere. Good food, good vibe.

Gili Meno, the little brother, definitely delivers in chill. In fact, most of the island is undeveloped, making for amazing ocean-side walks. No raves that we were aware of, but enough going on that you can shop for places to eat. The pizza at Biru Meno was fantastic – although, could have been that warm wind coming off the ocean blowing through your hair, and the sound of waves hitting the beach. If you want to just chill on a beach for a few days and contemplate reality, Meno is a good place to look.  

As usual, the worst part of every mission, is having to pack up and make our way back to base. But reality calls, and Amy’s Grade 3s and 4s await “Miss Amy” and the first day of back to school. Last beer on the beach, then into our horse taxi to the boat, back to the mainland, off to the airport, back to Jakarta, one last Uber ride home….returned to base!