Gunung bagging

Gunung Salak from Bogor

Gungung means “mountain” in Indonesian. And in Indonesia, gunung pretty much always means volcano. In fact, from what I can tell, Indonesians don’t differentiate the two. I had an amusing conversation with a guy a while ago, when I was trying to ask him if what we were looking at out the window, was a volcano (it was, of course). Obviously confused by the question, he just kept answering that it was a “gunung”, or mountain. OK, I get it, in this part of the world, volcano = mountain, and vice versa. Stupid bule.

 At 5,120 kms wide from tip to tip, and somewhere in the order of 15,000 islands (no one really knows, it depends on what you call an island), Indonesia is the planet’s largest archipelago – an archipelago largely made up of volcanic rock and ash. As a prominent card-carrying member of the infamous “ring of fire”, Indonesia is the Wayne Gretzky of volcano stats: highest number and density of volcanoes in the world, highest number of active volcanoes in the world (150 +/-), highest number of recorded volcanic eruptions resulting in fatalities, top-two most devastating eruptions in modern times…..you get the picture: volcano central. Between 1972 and 1991, there were 29 recorded volcanic eruptions in the country (mostly Java). If you want to see volcanoes, or more to the point, active volcanoes, Indonesia is for you. It would seem you really can’t go anywhere in Indonesia without seeing the tell-tale cone-shape hunk of rock in the distance.

So obviously, to us bules, and our “why did you climb it? – because it’s there” culture, a big cone-shaped, cloud-covered hunk of rock in the distance, is an irresistible opportunity to strap on the water bag and see what’s at the top. And so it is here in Indonesia, the “gunung bagging” phenomenon. There is, in fact, a website of that name, which could possibly be the originator of the moniker (www.gunungbagging.com). To those of you reading this from the flatter parts of the world, “bagging” in mountain speak basically means getting to the top, and thereby being able to say you “bagged the peak” – and hence the term.

To kick-off our gunung-bagging career, I took the opportunity to hook up with the Java Lava crew (Jakarta-based hiking club, described a couple posts ago) for a hike up Gunung Salak – our local volcano that serves as the backdrop to Bogor. It’s pretty much in our backyard. If it were to erupt, which is entirely possible (last eruption: 1938), it would, in all likelihood, be another one of those Gretzky-stats most-fatalities-in-modern-times scenarios. Many an evening has been spent sipping on a Bintang and gazing out over the Salak landscape from my favourite watering hole here in Bogor, the…wait for it…Salak Sunset Café (if you come to Bogor, we WILL see you there) J 

So Gunung Salak. At 2,211 m not a huge peak by any measure, but nonetheless, a rather enjoyable one-day outing, and a fantastic way of getting out of the city and into some thick forest. The great thing about gunungs in Java (and elsewhere in Indonesia), is that they represent some of the last remains of healthy forest cover on the island. It’s actually quite striking how pristine the place feels, given that only a few hours ago we were in the middle of one of the highest population densities in the world. At one point, while crossing a stream up high on the mountain, I really had to fight the urge to just reach down and take a drink. It was crystal clear and cool. Could have been B.C. Everyone in the group thought I was unquestionably insane for even suggesting such an absurd concept. Stupid bule, you don’t drink from streams here, give yer head a shake. (we’ll see) J

view (lack thereof) from the top

While not a huge peak elevation-wise, the hike is not for the weak-kneed. Starting at around 700 or 800 m, where most of the roads end, means you climb about 1400 m to get to the rim, then have to scramble back down. About a 7 or 8-hr hike all in, all of it either up or down. Also not recommended for those unwilling to get dirty – the trail is a bit of a mud fest (more than a bit). The whole time I was thinking that if it started raining, a highly probable event at any time in this area, we were, as the saying goes, screwed and tattooed. It would have turned the entire thing into one gigantic 1400m mudslide. Thankfully, the weather gods were shining on us, and spared us the mudslide epic.

Getting to the top was a tad anti-climactic however. Like most mountains, gunungs are known for their cloud cover, and that day was no exception. So unfortunately, the only thing we saw from the top, was each other. Although, while sitting at the top having a snack, I came to a stunning realization. For the first time in 2 months, I wasn’t sweating! At 2000 m, things had cooled off! Nice!

OK, so let’s see here….Gunung Salak, check. A fine start to the gunung bagging, of which many should follow. Oh wait, Amy needs to do it. And besides, it was in the clouds, so hey, Salak, we’ll be back!


 



Amy enjoying a Bintang at the Salak Sunset Café, Bogor